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With fragrant honey aromatics in the nose and a sweet butterscotch body, Chen’s expression of the rare Ya Shi Xiang cultivar is exquisite. He has experimented with a lighter charcoal roast than usual; the subsequent complexity is delicious. Legend has it that the farmer who discovered this variety loved it so much he lied to his neighbours and told them he sprayed his plants with duck poo (Ya Shi Xiang translates as “duck s#!t aroma”) so they would not steal his plants.