Cai’s technique draws out powerfully aromatic volatiles that make for a memorably smooth and complex expression of this classic wulong, with notes of lily in the nose and a lingering pear finish. Tie Guan Yin is most often made these days with the more ubiquitous Qing Xin cultivar, but Cai is a traditionalist and works exclusively with the now less prevalent yet original Hong Xin cultivar in his production. His experience and attention to detail shine.